HOT AIR TURBO/SFI

HOT AIR TURBO/SFI

V-6 NOTES

84-85 Turbo 3.8 Liter Engine Sensors

ECM Harness

1. Electronic Control Module (ECM)
2. Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) Connector
3. Service Engine Soon Light
4. ECM +12 Volt Connection
5. ECM Harness Ground
6. Fuse Panel

Not ECM Connected

7. Fuel Filter
8. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve
9. N/A
10. Turbocharger

Controlled Devices

11. Fuel Injectors (6)
12. Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
13. Fuel Pump Relay
14. Transmission Converter Clutch (TCC) Connector
15. Computer Controlled Coil (C3I) Ignition
16. Electronic Spark Control (ESC) Module
17. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Vacuum Solenoid
18. Air Conditioning Compressor Relay
19. Fuel Vapor Canister Solenoid
20. Wastegate Control Solenoid

Information Sensors

25. Exhaust Oxygen (O2)
26. Throttle Position (TPS)
27. Coolant Temperature
28. Camshaft Position
29. Crankshaft Position
30. Mass Air Flow (MAF)
31. Knock Sensor
32. Transmission Park/Neutral (PN) Switch
33. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
34. MAP Sensor

The perfect place to add a remote oil pressure sensor is the back of block. Remove the passengers side galley plug (must be passengers side) install fitting and run a hard (pre-made) brake line up through a hole that you will have to drill beside the knock sensor. Then put the oil pressure sensor at the rear of engine.

Type 1 Module is available from GM PartsDirect.com, P/N 24503624 for $154.06.

Coil Pack is available at Summit P/N ACC-140016 for $85.95

1984-1985 Turbo Regal Common Parts

gnttype-webmaster@gnttype.org

GM and Non-GM Parts

Coil	25533542
Coil-to-ignition module gasket	25526450
Fuel pressure regulator, Turbo TA and Somerset	25523720
Head bolts - torque to yield Long	25525953
Short	25527831
Ignition Module	25526449
Turbo Inlet Gasket - Rivera	1261269
Seal adapter to turbo ( o-ring )	25515935
Seal adapter to intake ( o-ring )	1262817
Wastegate - adjustable	25527603
Non GM parts
Larger rear brake cylinders GM	18012305
EIS	104432
Bendix	33892
Felpro Gaskets Exhaust	1400
Felpro Gaskets Intake	1200
Felpro Gaskets Heads (4.1)	1026
Main seal kit	BS40613
Higher Capacity Oil Filters
AC	PF-52
Fram	3980
Bosch O2 Sensors	0-258-002-019
Fuel Injector O rings (Also for regulator)	SK1 RN7
Remote Oil pressure sending unit (like used on the GNX) Stewart-Warner	F-279B
Walker Super Turbo DynoMax Mufflers (2 1/4" in/out)	17731
K & N Filters Stock Replacement style	RE-0910

GM and Non-GM Parts

DESCRIPTION

PART NUMBER

NOTE

A/C compressor spacer .030" to align pulleys

14047730

AC/Delco Tread Sealer with Teflon

14011040

Bolt, Rod Cap

25531956

Bolt, Main Cap

25517607

Bolt, Head -torque to yield Long

25525953

Bolt, Head-torque to yield Short

25527831

Boost Solenoid

1997157

Brace, Alternator accessory

25525338

Discontinued

Calpack

16036503

Alternate: 16036504

Cam thrust button w/needle bearings

25532588

Cam Sprocket(nylon over teeth)

25523115

Coil-to-ignition module screw

25533541

Coil-to-ignition module gasket

25526450

Coolant Temp Switch(on intake under FPR)

.3053190

Coolant recovery reservoir

25525470

Crank Shaft, GN/T-Type

12350247

Crank Shaft, Turbo Trans-AM (Same as above but has cross drilled main journals)

25535742

Crankshaft Balancer Spacer "seal" .030" (max. .060")

25523377

Crank Sensor (Complete)

25525667

Crank Sensor Bracket

12537113

(AC/Delco #213-280)

Crank Sensor Bolt

12537114

(AC/Delco #213-281)

Crank Sensor

12537109

(AC/Delco #213-292)

1986 ESC Module

16022614

1987 ESC Module

16051654

Cam Sensor With Drive

25516915

Cam Sensor

25518357

Cam Sensor Shaft O Ring

1959331

Cam Sensor Spacer Shims

1837617

EGR filter

10159525

EGR Valve

17111570

ECM

1227148

Engine, Short Block minus cam

25527476

List $1575 on 6-91 Discontinued

Exhaust Turbo Outlet Pipe (Downpipe)

25526459

Exhaust Catalytic Converter

25103338

Exhaust "Y" Pipe After Converter

25525383

Exhaust Pipe Over Axle LH

25520013

Exhaust Pipe Over Axle RH

25520012

Exhaust Muffler

25520009

Exhaust Tail Pipe LH

25520011

Exhaust Tail Pipe RH

25520012

Exhaust Manifold LH

25527391

Exhaust Manifold RH

25527378

Exhaust, Catalytic Converter Hanger

25525381

Fan delay relay

25527402

Fan Hi and Low Relay

25526984

Passenger Side Relay Shroud

25518460

Flexplate Turbo 81-87 (heavier piston/pins)

25512350

Fuel pressure regulator, Turbo TA and Somerset

25523720

Fuel Rail

25524302

Fuel Rail, Feed Line (Pipe Assembly)

25526146

Fuel Injector O Ring

10031124

Fuel Injector Wire Harness

12060425

Fuel Pump Strainer Sock

25055458

Fuel Line 'O' Rings Return line at FPR .

22516256

Fuel Line 'O' Rings Feed line at fuel rail

22514722

Fuel Meter Gasket (Between Sender and Tank)

12337247

Fuel Pump Relay

10038490

Fuel Pump Hanger/Sender

9167390510

Gasket Kit, Engine Overhaul (Contains all engine gaskets EXCEPT valve seals)

12328748

Gasket Kit, Top End (Includes head gaskets, intake gasket, and valve cover gaskets)

12328759

Gasket kit, Front cover (Includes cover gasket, water pump gasket, mechenical fuel pump block off plate gasket. This kit will also fit Buick 3.0L FWD V6)

12337540

Gasket, Oil Pan

25521994

Gasket, oil pick up screen to block

24501259

Gasket, Head gaskets (composite)

25528486

Gasket, Head gasket (steel shim)

25524599

Gasket, EGR to intake $1.14

25530599

Gasket, IAC (round)

25530697

Gasket, Upper Plenum to Intake

24502089

Gasket, Throttle-Body to Upper Plenum

25517008

Gasket, Turbo Inlet bell

25514608

Gasket, Vacuum block (top of throttle body)

25536028

Gas tank, with TR baffle

22523080

Governor (transmission)

8655976

Grommet, Pass Side Valve Cover

1264486

Heater hoses Inlet

25525213

Outlet

25525214

To water pump

25525228

Water pump Bypass

25525245

Idle Air Control (IAC)

25527077

Ignition module

25526449

Intake Manifold

25527221

Intake, Upper Plenum

25525146

Knock Sensor

10456287

Lifter Set

5234485-12

Low fuel warning assembly

6432974

Mass air flow sensor

25007866

Discontinued

MAF Sensor (3"Impalla SS)

25180303

(AC/Delco 1#213-352)

Motor Mounts Left

1255273

Right

1255274

Oil Cooler Adapter

25530885

Discontinued

Oil Cooler Adapter O Ring

25530999

Oil Pressure Switch

25036378

Oil Pressure Switch Molded Connector

12085529

(has 3 white wires which need to be spliced in)

Oil Pump, stock

12337732

Oxygen Sensor, (Stock)

25162693

(AFS-20)

Oxygen Sensor, (GNX)

25162753

(AFS-22)

Oxygen Sensor, (GM) Heated

25312179

(AFS-74)

Oil Supplement, GM Engine (EOS)

1052367

Posi Traction Additive

1052358

Posi, Clutch Pack

00231127

Positive Battery Cable

12157883

PCV valve

25095468

AC# CV893C

PCV grommet

1381487

PCV hose

10055808

non turbo part that works-must cut to fit

PCV hose Dayco

87000

3/8" hose with a 90 degree bend that can be trimmed

Push Rod, Stock

25510025

Radiator hose Upper

25525229

Lower

25523616

Radiator Cap

RC27

Seal, Intake Valve (no seals used on exhaust valves)

25535162

Servo Cover (Transmission)

24200798

Starter, Light Weight Unit

10465293

(95+ F-bodies w/v8) AC/Delco # 323-488

Starter, Bolts for Light Weight Unit above

12338064 & 14037733

Switch, Hobbs GM

25503871

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

25036663

Timing Chain Tensioner

25532546

Timing Chain Tensioner Spring

1358909

Transmission Dipstick grommet

1259475

Transmission Valve Body Separator Plate

8657309

Top Engine Clean

1#1050002

Throttle Valve Cable

25532115

Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid

8639900

Turbo Inlet Gasket - Rivera

1261269

Turbo oil drain gasket

25537227

Turbo to downpipe seal

1262500

Turbo center housing rotating assembly

25527601

Valve Body Separator Plate

8657309

Vacuum Block Assembly (TTA)

25536304

Vacuum Check Valve (one way)

14047619

Vacuum Check Valve HVAC/Cruise

14056648

Valve, Check

25525315

Valve Stem Umbrella Seal Kit

12511890

Valve Springs, LT1 ~105# Seat Pressure

3927142

Valve Cover Grommet (passenger side)

1264486

Wastegate - adjustable

25527603

Wastegate control hose assembly

25525576

Wastegate solenoid

1997157

Wastegate solenoid filter

801528

Non GM parts

Alternator bearing/ Idler pulley

6203LU

Axle Housing gasket (rear end cover)

Engine Dynamics (McCord)

DT004

FelPro

RDS55028-1

McCord

762060

Victor

P27857

Larger rear brake cylinders GM

18012305

EIS

104432

Bendix

#WC37644T

Brake, Speed Bleeders (Russell) front

3958

Summit

rear

3952

Brake, PowerMaster (AutoZone)

52-9702

Autozone rebuilds

Brake, Proportioning Valve (Adj.)

G3905

Summit

Converter, Vigilante

239028-7

(0#)~32-3500 rpm stall, 7-disc

Coolant Temp Sensor F.A.S.T.

30-7003

Coil Pack, GM/Magnavox(Accel)

140016

FelPro Gaskets

Axle Housing (rear)

RDS55028-1

Conversion Set 3.8l

CS 8142-4

20 bolt oil pan, VIN A, 7, 9

Distributor Mounting "O" Ring

1-420

Timing Cover Packing

1-3986 AF

Fuel Pump Mounting

1-5181-1

Rear Main Bearing Cap Pin

2-10675 S

Oil Pressure Relief Valve

1-11927 C

Rear Bearing Cap Seal

2-12708

Rear Bearing Cap Pin

2-12708 S

Water Pump

1-12996-1

Oil Pump Suction Flange

1-12999

Rear Main Bearing Seal

2-13044 AF

Timing cover

1-45006-1

Oil Pump Cover

1-70032

Oil Pan Drain Plug

1-70822

Oil pan (Perma-Dry molded rubber)

1-90161

Timing Cover Set [Replaces #12337540]

TCS45930

Timing cover #95364, O-ring #420, fuel pump #5181,water pump #12996, oil pump cover #70032

Oil Pan Set [Replaces #25521994]

OS30521R

oil pan #90161, oil pickup #12999

Intake Manifold Set [Replaces #12328760]

MS96033

intake manifold #96033, end seals #90911, O-ring #420, vacuum block #94210,RTV#226L

Valve Cover Set

VS50156C

ROL Oil Pan Set (cork)

0S5755

Felpro Gaskets Exhaust

1400

Felpro Gaskets Intake

1200

Felpro Gaskets Head (3.8)

1000

Felpro Gaskets Head (4.1)

1026

Felpro Gaskets Head (Wire-loc)

1007

Main seal kit

BS40613

Head Gasket set - for vin 7 3.8L

HS 9441 B

water outlet "O" ring

1-427

Head gasket

2-9441 B

Valve Cover

2-50156

Throttle Body

1-60654

Throttle Body

1-60656

Valve Stem seal (VITON)

6-70817

EGR

1-72635

Fuel Feed Seal

4-90457

Fuel Return "O" Ring seal

4-90467

Exhaust Manifold

2-90508

Oil Drain Connector

1-90587

"O" Ring Fuel Injector seal

7-92588

Intake Manifold Plenum

1-93332

Oil Cooler

1-93378

Vacuum block

1-93979

Turbo Exhaust Seal

1-60755

Clevite Bearings (See Note 1)

Cam Bearings

SH1376S-XX

Rod Bearings

CB1398H-XX

Main Bearings

MS960H-XX

Cyberdyne Air/Fuel gauge

7009

O2 sensor - 3 wire - F.A.S.T

30-7001

Manifold Air Temperature Sensor - F.A.S.T

30-7004

Pistons, TRW Forged (See Note 1)

L2481F-XX

Piston Rings, Sealed Power, Plasma Molly, FILE TO FIT (See Note 1)

R-10437-XXX

Piston Rings, Sealed Power, Molly, NON-FILE TO FIT (See Note 1)

E-434K-XXX

Piston Rings, Gapless Total Seals ( standard )

TSR-2165TS1

Piston Rings, Gapless Total Seals ( 0.030 over )

TSR-2165030TS1

HD Billet Servo Slide Assembly (SSA) 200-4R

20040

Fairbanks Racing Products

Rocker Arm, Shaft HD

RS-624

(Sealed Power)

Rocker Arm, Shaft HD Assembly

RA-1068H

(Sealed Power)

Thermostat 160 (Motorcraft )

RT-350

Thermostat 160 (O; Rielly)

13356

Thermostat Gasket

25132

Valve, Springs:

OD(in.)	Closed#	Open#	Rate(#/in.)	Part number
1.20	80	200	267	VS677
1.23	85	230	295	VS1615
1.264	105	277	350	VS739R
1.24	80	200	267	CC 979
1.23	91	229	307	CC 980
1.25	105	295	423	CC 981

Federal Mogul and Comp Cams numbers. CC979 has no internal dampers.

Posi Unit, Moroso Brute Strength

83030

Timing Chain, Cloyes True Roller

93134

Higher Capacity Oil Filters

PF-52

Fram

3980

Mr Gasket Universal Drain Plug Kit

GKT 4470

O2 Sensors, Bosch One wire

0-258-002-019

Three wire

0-258-003-106

Fuel Injector O rings (Also for regulator)

SK1 RN7

Fuel Injector, "Blue Tops"

0-280-150-967

K & N Filters Stock Replacement style

RE-0910

Main Stud kit for Buick V6 Stage 1 & 2, 2-Bolt Main, includes nuts and washers.

123-5401

ARP

Valve cover vent

62-1160

B&M Transkit for THM200-4R

35229

B&M Supercooler (11" x 7")

70255

Transmission filter and pan gasket set Fram

1057B

Relay, 30 amp, for Fuel pump hot wiring, Radio Shack

275-226

TCI Filter and Pan Gasket Kit

386500

TCI Pro Super 200-4R Overhaul Kit

386800

TCI Hardened Input Shaft

384500

Coolant Temp Sensor Speed Pro Electronics

30-7003

3-wire O2 sensor Speed Pro Electronics

30-7001

Manifold Air Temp Sensor Speed Pro Electronics

30-7004

TCI TR calibrated valve body (BRF equivalent)

382200

Stock Replacement Oil Pump Kit, Melling NAPA#

BK601-1311

Southside Machine Lift Bars

P1313

Jacobs Spark plug wires

401290

Valves, Intake (TRW)

V3124X

1.770"

Valves, Intake (Manley) Severe Duty

11502

1.710"

Valves, Exhaust (Manley)

11503

1.500"

Valves, Intake (Manley) Severe Duty

11504

1.775"

Convert Your 84/85 to an 86/87 ECM

Benefits

The following article describes how I updated my wiring harness and ECM to the newer '86-87 ECM. This update has several advantages over the original ECM such as:

Greater chip availability
The ability to use Tweaker to program you own chips
Twice the available data from TurboLink (R) in Road Mode
The ability to use BST-001 Boost sensing option for TurboLink (R)
1227148 ECM's are readily available in the "yards"
Electric fan control available (Optional)

I'm sure there are more reasons to change to the newer ECM, but these are the major reasons, feel free to think up your own too. <grin> I have received a lot of e-mail from people wondering if the car will run faster or get better ET's from the conversion. None of this will happen UNLESS it stems directly from the advantages listed above.

Limitations

A few things the ECM conversion won't do is to:

Make a poor running car run better
Fix a broken fuel pump
unplug a fuel filter
Repair bad injectors
Fix a bad TPS
Fix a bad CTS
unplug a plugged cat converter

The Conversion

After much testing, I must suggest that you also get a 86/87 MAF part #25007866. The calibration of the 84/5 MAF is different and gave drivability problems with the 1227148 ECM, when cold weather came upon us in St.Louis. The colder air sensed by the MAT richened up the fuel air ratio, trying to compensate for the denser air, to the point that the car would belch black smoke out of the exhaust. Switching to the 86/7 MAF cured the problem.

First off I went to the U-Pullit and got a wiring harness out of a FWD GM car with a '86-87 3.0-3.8 V-6 in it. When I removed the wiring harness, I removed the relays and sensors that were plugged into it too. Then I striped the harness down and dissected it wire by wire. This way, I got all the fan relays AND the MAT sensor w/plug and wire to the ECM. The wires at the ECM plug come out with a large paper clip (or jewlers screwdriver) inserted into the release hole. If you have never had a wire out of the ECM plug before, I suggest a little practice on the OTHER harness first!

Before your car can be driven without the SES light on, the MAT sensor must be put in. I cut a hole in the bottom of the K&N right in front of the MAF sensor to sample the incoming air temperature. Then I took the sensor plug/wire and ran it to the ECM by poking thru the grommet on the speedometer cable. I use wire loom in the engine compartment to dress things up and make things look factory. I ran the wire to the ECM under the dash carefully staying away from the gas and brake pedals. The MAT uses the same sensor ground as the TPS and CTS ,so I spliced into the ground wire at the ECM (D-12 black,no stripe). The other wire from the MAT sensor needs to be plugged into pin #C-11 (tan) at the ECM, this is where the wire from the other car came into play. It should still have the clip on the end that will plug straight into C-11 on the ECM plug.

The ECM can come out of a 86 century but be sure to have the part #1227148 ECM. The dealer gave me two part #'s for the cal-pak in the ECM, they are 16036503 and 16036504. My 84 ECM HAD the 16036504 in it so I used it.

Pitch any other cal-pak with a different number. I downloaded a ROM file from the archives for the prom. Any 86-7 chip should do. Use a stocker to get things going. But with the addition of the MAT sensor, and the chips to the ECM, this will plug straight in and run.(without the MAT sensor)
As far as the electric fan setup goes, This IS an option. The fan control at the ECM is pin #D-2. This circuit grounds a relay when active. There are many ways to wire and electric fan. So I will not go into too much on it right now. I wired up the 10 min timer to come on if the car shuts off and the temp sensor in the radiator is tripped (about 195 deg) with the fan on high. The fan also runs on hi when the ECM calls for it. I have the low speed coming on with the A/C. To get more acquainted with the fan circuit (and ECM) I went to the library and looked up all the different years in the Mitchell manual. Take a bunch of dimes and copy the pages that you are interested in, like the ECM pinout and the fan setup on several cars. I found some pusher/puller fan setups too.

As you should always do when splicing/adding wires. I use a 150 watt or so soldering gun and rosin core electrical solder to solder ANY connections you make. There is nothing more frustrating than looking for an electrical "gremlin" than to find out that YOU were the cause of it by not doing it right the first time. Get the wire good and hot so the solder can flow into it.

Also use HEAT SHRINK! Tape tends to come loose and fall off over a period of time, and get "gooey".

At the ECM , taking the wire out of the plug , stripping a small area bare a couple of inches from the plug and solder the wires together. Then, slip on the heat shrink, and make sure it shrinks good.

By following my procedures outlined here, the ECM can be changed (less fan circuit) in about 30 minutes if you have all the stuff already.

Production 3.8 Liter Turbo Timing Cover

Casting number

REAR

DETAIL

Features of Note:

Water pump openings on the left and right
Aftermarket Neoprene front crank seal is installed on this cover
Cam Sensor is installed in this view. Notice how it meshes with the Oil pump shaft
Oil pump passages (3 round holes on the lower right)
Cast aluminum

Features of Note:

Water Pump is installed already in this view
Pressure Relief Valve, Spring and Cap are shown
One oil pump gear rides on a dowel cast into the front cover (not visible in this view)
Oil cooler adapter uses the O ring for sealing between the oil filter and oil pump body.

Production 1984-1985 Turbo 3.8 Liter Intake

Casting number 25515926

TOP	SIDE

Features of Note: From the top you can see the PCV hole with grommet on one side and the turbo oil drain with grommet on the other side. The intake uses the older style thermostat like a SBC (left side of picture) Turbo inlet is on the right side of the picture	Features of Note: From the side you can see decent sized intake ports You can see the "low rise" intake runners and central plenum area.
BOTTOM	TURBO INLET

Features of Note: The bottom of the intake shows some of the flow path. Air enters the intake flows to the front of the intake and turns back and is distributed to the intake runners.	Features of Note: The intake hole for the turbo is split directing the flow to the right and left separately with the EGR port in the middle. You can see where the EGR port comes through the intake from the head, it is directed to the turbo inlet through the valve and pipe(not pictured) to a large threaded hole on the side of the turbo inlet port on the intake
BACK	FRONT

Features of Note: This view clearly shows the turbo inlet You can see the grommets for the oil return and EGR	Features of Note: This view clearly shows the larger thermostat opening.

Production 1984-1985 Turbo 3.8 Liter Intake

Casting number 25515926

TOP	TURBO MOUNTING

Features of Note: This is a view of the unique way that the oil return runs on an '84/85 turbo setup. Arrow points to grommet in the intake that the oil return pipe plugs into	Features of Note: In this view you can see the oil feed line (bottom/center of picture The throttle body is to the right of the picture. It's a TIGHT fit for the turbo in this mounting position!
MOUNTING	TURBO INLET

Features of Note: Turbo inlet adapter plugs into the large hole (white arrow) Green arrows indicate mounting points for the turbocharger itself	Features of Note: This shows the oil return pipe Notice the 'bellows' to allow some flex and expansion

Stock 1984-1985 Turbocharger
Stock
BOTTOM	FRONT/COMPRESSOR

Features of Note: This is a stock "Hot Air" turbo Notice the O ring on the compressor outlet. This friction fits into the intake manifold If you look closely, you can see the smallish sized turbine wheel Exhaust housing is very similar to later turbos	Features of Note: From this angle you can see the much smaller diameter of the compressor housing compared to the 86/87 The turbine housing also looks to be a tighter scroll Notice the way the wastegate actuator pressure feed is at the back of the scroll
INSIDE COMPRESSOR	BOTTOM/TURBINE

Features of Note: This is an interesting view of the inside of the compressor housing Notice the oil residue...evidently the compressor seal on this particular turbo was leaking The compressor inlet hole is pretty small Again, you can see the O ringed adapter piece that fits into the intake manifold	Features of Note: Notice the turbine scroll is "fatter" and smaller than the '86/87 This shows the separate inlet adapter with the O ring pretty clearly This is the bottom of the turbo and you can see the oil return, which is pretty standard
CENTER SECTION	TOP

Features of Note: The center section looks very much like any other Garrett turbo Notice the oil feed fitting on the right/center of the picture The turbo support bracket bolts to the turbine housing This view shows how "fat" and tight the scroll is for the turbine side	Features of Note: The fitting is the oil feed line This view shows pretty clearly how small the compressor is The smaller compressor housing can fit the tight space at the back of the motor under the hood
COMPRESSOR	EXHAUST/TURBINE

Features of Note: This view shows how "fat" and tight the scroll is for the compressor side Notice the standard inlet bell (bolt on style)	Features of Note: Notice the small size of the wastegate hole Notice the smallish turbine hole

Fuel Injection ECM Pinouts

Scott Simpson

1986 & 1987 3.8 Liter Turbo Engine

This ECM Chart is for use with a digital voltmeter to further aid in diagnosis. The voltages you get may vary due to low battery or other reasons, but should be close. The ECM has 2 connectors: 1 24-pin (A&B) and a 32-pin (C&D)

The following conditions must be met before testing:

Engine at operating temperature, Diagnostic terminal not grounded,
Idling in closed loop (for "Eng. Run" column), ALDL tool not installed.

Key On	Eng. Run.	CIRCUIT	PIN	WIRE
0*	B+	Fuel Pump Relay	A1	Green/Black
B+	0*/B+	A/C Clutch Control	A2	Light Green/Black
B+	B+	Canister Purge Control	A3	Green/Yellow
B+	B+	EGR Control	A4	Grey
0*	B+	"SES" Control	A5	Brown/White
B+	B+	IGN-ECM Fuse	A6	Pink/Black
B+	B+	TCC Control ALDL	A7	Tan/Black
4.3	varies 2-5	Serial Data ALDL	A8	Orange
5.0	5.0	Diagnostic Term ALDL	A9	White/Black
0*	0*	Speed Sensor Signal	A10	Dark Brown
0*/B+	B+	Cam Hi	A11	Black
0*	0*	Ground	A12	Black/White
.	.	Not Used	B1	.
.	.	Not Used	B2	.
0*	0*	Crank Reference Low	B3	Black/Red
0*	0*	EST Control	B4	White
0*/B+	B+	Crank Reference High	B5	Purple/White
2.50	2.48	MAF Sensor Signal	B6	Yellow
8.71	8.75	ESC Signal	B7	Yellow/Black
B+/0*	B+/0*	A/C Signal (On/Off)	B8	Light Blue
.	.	Not Used	B9	.
0*	0*	Park/Neutral Switch	B10	Orange/Black
.	.	Not Used	B11	.
B+	B+	Injector #5	B12	Black/White
.	.	Not Used	C1	.
.	.	Not Used	C2	.
N/U	N/U	Idle Air Control B Lo	C3	Green/Black
N/U	N/U	Idle Air Control B Hi	C4	Green/White
N/U	N/U	Idle Air Control A Hi	C5	Blue/White
N/U	N/U	Idle Air Control A Lo	C6	Blue/Black
0*	0*	3rd Gear Signal	C7	Green/White
0*	0*	4th Gear Signal	C8	Light Blue
.	.	Not Used	C9	.
2.04	2.18	Coolant Temp. Signal	C10	Yellow
2.46	2.09	Mass Air Temp. Signal	C11	Tan
B+	B+	Injector #6	C12	Black/Yellow
.36-.44	.36-.44	TPS Signal	C13	Dark Blue
5	5	TPS 5 volt Reference	C14	Grey
B+	B+	Injector #2	C15	Black/Green
0*	0*	Battery 12 volts	C16	Orange
0*	0*	Ground	D1	Black/White
B+	B+	Low Speed Fan Control	D2	Dark Green
B+	B+	Wastegate Control	D3	Pink/White
.	.	Not Used	D4	.
4.56	4.56	Bypass	D5	Tan/Black
0*	0*	O2 Sensor Ground	D6	Tan
0*	0*	O2 Sensor Signal	D7	Purple
.	.	Not Used	D8	.
0*	0*	EGR Diagnostic	D9	Purple/White
0*	0*	Ground	D10	Black/White
.	.	Not Used	D11	.
0*	0*	TPS/CTS/MAT Ground	D12	Black
.	.	Not Used	D13	.
B+	B+	Injector #1	D14	Black
B+	B+	Injector #3	D15	Black/Pink
B+	B+	Injector #4	D16	Black/Red

Notes:

B+ Battery Positive voltage
* Less than 1 volt
1. VSS varies from .45 to B+ depending on speed
2. CTS at Normal Operating Temperature
3. A8 & D7 varies
4. A1 is B+ first two or three seconds
5. A11 & B5 Depends on vane position in relation to "hall effect" switch. Voltage is low when vane is passing through switch.
6. A2 & B8 Engine running, voltage will be high or low, dpending on whether A/C is on or off.
7. N/U is Not Useable

Cam Sensor Frequently Asked Questions

Tom Chou

Cam Sensor Basics

If we're discussing a DIS on a TR, well after 10 years I'm surprised there's still confusion.

1.	Setting the cam sensor has NOTHING to do with initial timing.
2.	Moving the cam sensor a few degrees does nothing to the ignition timing. If the car runs, (and the 3x trigger on the balancer is mounted correctly by the factory) then your ignition timing will be EXACTLY what's in the spark map of the chip regardless of where the cam sensor is set.
3.	I say if the car runs, because for ignition timing, all the cam sensor does is tell us which cylinder is #6. After the cam signal goes LOW, (stock spec is 25 deg ATDC of cylinder #1) the next RISING edge of the CRANK pulse will occur exactly 10 deg BTDC of cylinder #6.
4.	Therefore, if the cam signal wasn't there, you would never know which crank pulse signaled #6 (or any other cylinder for that matter).
5.	Once we have this info, cylinder #6 and #3 will fire. Remember this is a waste spark system (but I'm sure everyone knows that by now) so #6 will be on compression but #3 on exhaust, whose spark is wasted. It takes very little energy to fire a plug that's not under compression, so it's no big deal.
5a.	Note also that the current goes through and fires one plug the "normal" way (center electrode to GND electrode), through the block, and fires the other plug "backwards" (GND electrode to center electrode).
5b.	This being the case, if you switch wires on the SAME coil (6&3, 1&4, 2&5) it won't make a bit of difference to the car - the plug that was "backward" firing before will now be "normal" and vice versa.
5c.	So you can see, on crank up and during limp-home mode, spark advance is 10 deg BTDC since the rising (active) edge of the crank signal occurs 10 deg BTDC of every cylinder.
6.	So, moving the cam sensor within the window where the next rising crank pulse is the #6 cylinder has absolutely NO effect on actual ignition timing. Ignition timing calculations are based off the CRANK sensor, which cannot be adjusted short of modifying the balancer or retapping the crank sensor mounting location!
7.	So what happens when you move the cam sensor beyond that window and the next crank pulse is either #1 or #5 (depending on the direction you moved it) and not #6? You guessed it, the #6/3 coil will still fire, but the #6 won't be anywhere near TDC and the engine will either kick back or just not run. Regardless, if you get the cam sensor out of adjustment enough to affect ignition timing, it'll simply be out of sync so much the car won't run. That's why if the car is actually running, you can bet the ignition timing is dead on.
8.	This brings up some more points. (Might as well be thorough) What happens if you set the cam sensor 180 degrees out? For ignition, nothing. The plug that was supposed to be on compression will now be on exhaust, and vice versa. The car doesn't care! Ignition will be perfect. Fueling, on the other hand, is a different story. More on that later.
9.	What happens if you unplug the cam sensor while the engine is running? Nothing. A malf code will set, but as long as you don't kill the engine it'll keep running perfectly (assuming the crank sensor is good.) Once you kill it though, it won't start again.
10.	What happens if you move the cam sensor while the engine is running? Every two revs, the cam sensor info is checked. If the cam sensor signal is present, it updates and resyncs. If not there, a malf code is set and the previous sync is used. See #9. For ignition, moving the cam sensor within that window where it syncs correctly does nothing. Move it outside that window and you'll backfire like never before, as you'll fire the wrong cylinder at the wrong time. Trust me, I had it happen. My cam sensor lost it's tab for the keyway on the shaft and started moving on it's own. Exploded my mufflers. I wrote a note about 2 months back about that.
11.	So, I hope everyone's convinced that adjusting the cam sensor has absolutely no effect on ignition timing, but can only cause a no-start or tremendous backfire & stalling if running. A stretched/slipped timing chain therefore also has no effect on ignition timing.
12.	HOWEVER, adjusting the cam sensor has a tremendous effect on FUELING, as the SFI syncs off the cam too. I don't know much (yet) about the fueling specs, but it apparently has a much narrower window than ignition in order to sync to the wrong cylinder. This is why if you have the cam 180 deg out the car will run terribly because the fueling is all messed up. Basically it'll be in a SFI mode where fuel is puddling for 1 rev before being sucked in.
13.	This is where any performance gain/losses will occur. MAYBE advancing the cam sensor a bit might help a big cam engine that opens the intake sooner, I don't know. It definitely affects idle quality having the cam sensor out of adjustment. In my opinion I can't see how advancing the cam will help as you're practically in a batch fire mode at WOT where the injector is on practically the whole time. I can't see how a few msec sooner is going to have a great effect. SFI has it's greatest effect at idle & part throttle, and a misadjusted cam definitely can be felt here. Actually, the fueling can only sync off the crank signal too, with the cam telling it which crank pulse corresponds to which cylinder, so it you're off, you're off by a whole cylinder. It'll be a step function. Within a certain window, you'll be fueling the same cylinder, adjust some more, and you'll step into another one. I can't believe fueling the wrong cylinder can help performance no matter what cam you have.
14.	I think that's it. Sorry, didn't mean to write a book. Isn't this info in the FAQ list or something? If not it needs to be. Too much misinformation out there. I should copyright this and charge! Now that it's posted on the list, everyone will be an expert on this and can claim "Oh yeah, I knew that stuff 10 years ago!" Yeah, right. But that's what this list is for, to educate Buick owners and admirers about their cars, so that they don't get ripped off by mechanics and such, right Scott?

C3I Ignition Module Swap for '84/85 Turbo Regals

David A. Arieno

C3I Ignition Module Connector Pin Out for using an '86/87 Module on an '84/85 Turbo Regal

IMPORTANT!!

Study the attached "pin out" chart for '84-'85 C3I connector. Mark the current wires, (using small strips of masking tape), with their description and wire number! (You'll be amazed how much easier it'll be if you do!!!)

Gently pry the weather seals loose from the connector, sliding them down the harness approximately 2". Using a suitable pin removal tool, remove required metri-pack pins, pulling them forward through the connector. (Remember, pins "A", "B", and "C" remain the same, and don't need to be removed.)
I recommend that you purchase 15 or more new metri-pack pins (NAPA # 725189, 25 pins to a pack; also available through GM and Belden)
Remove pins from the wires. (Snip the wires as close to the pins as possible! )Pull the wire back through the connector and weatherseal.)
Arrange the wires as required and push them back through the rubber weather seal.(These hold seven wires each, and actually help hold things in proper order while you are reinstalling the pins).
Starting with pin "D" strip approximately 1/16" off the wire, and pull it through the metri-pack connector.
Carefully crimp the two rear tabs of a new metri-pack pin over the end of the insulation, then lightly solder the pin to the exposed copper wire. Gently crimp the remaining tabs over the solder joint.(Yes, it's a crimp type pin, but solder it anyway! It ensures you have the proper connection)
Gently pull the wire back into the metri-pack connector, ensuring that you have the
pin positioned properly. This should lock the pin into the connector.
Repeat with remaining pins.
Gently slide the weather seals up the wires toward the connector and push them into the connector. That should do it, clean and neat! I leave up to you to fabricate a suitable adapter mount plate. Start with a 4.5" by 6" piece of 1/16" plate.......

Alternate Method

-VERY IMPORTANT! -MARK ALL WIRES TO THE IGNITION MODULE CONNECTOR WITH TAPE.
Cut the wires on the harness outside metri-pack connector and splice the harness back together with shrink-butt crimp connectors. Soldering and heat shrink would also work.....BE CAREFUL! The harness wire length doesn't leave you much room for error.

Pin A: This pin remains the same. ("ECM B4 EST", white wire, #423)
Pin B: This pin remains the same. ("ECM D5 BYPASS", tan/black wire, #424)
Pin C: This pin remains the same. ("ECM B5 REF. LOW", purple/white wire, #430)
Pin D: Remove "TACH LEAD" (white wire, #121). Splice in "ECM B-3 REF. LOW", black/red wire, #453. [Previously located at pin F position!]
Pin E: Remove "ECM ALL CAM" (yellow wire, #951). Splice in "TACH LEAD",white wire, #121. [Previously located at pin D position!]
Pin F: Splice in" CRANK SENSOR B", green wire, #918 [Previously located at pin G position!]
Pin G: Splice in "CRANK SENSOR C GRND", black wire, #952. [Previously located in pin H position!]
Pin H: Splice in "CRANK SENSOR A 12V", white/red wire, #916. [Previously located in pin J position!]
Pin J: ( Pin I not used.) Splice in "ECM ALL CAM", yellow wire, #951. [Previously located in pin E position!]
Pin K: Splice in "CAM SENSOR B SIGNAL", blue lt wire, #917. [Previously located at pin L position!]
Pin L: Splice in "CAM SENSOR C GRND", black wire, #952. [Previously located at pin K position!]
Pin M: Remove "CAM SENSOR A 12V", white/red wire, #916. Splice in"IGNITION POWER", pink/black wire, #839. [Previously installed in pin P position!]
Pin N: Remove "IGNITION POWER", pink/black wire, #439. Splice in "CAM SENSOR A 12V", white/red wire, #916. [Previously installed in pin M position!]
Pin P: (Pin O not used.) Splice in "IGNITION POWER", pink/black wire, #439. [Previously located in pin N position!] That should do it! Plug it in, tighten it up, time for an ops check!!!!!!

1984-85 Turbo Regal C3I Ignition Module Connector Pinouts

PIN	WIRE #	DESCRIPTION	WIRE COLOR
A	423	ECM B4 EST	WHITE
B	424	ECM D5 BYPASS	TAN/BLACK
C	430	ECM B5 REF. HIGH	PURPLE/WHITE
D	121	TACH LEAD	WHITE
E	951	ECM ALL CAM	YELLOW
F	453	ECM B3 REF. LOW	BLACK/RED
G	918	CRANK SENSOR B SIGNAL	GREEN
H	952	CRANK SENSOR C GRND	BLACK
J	916	CRANK SENSOR A 12V	WHITE/RED
K	952	CAM SENSOR C GRND	BLACK
L	917	CAM SENSOR B SIGNAL	BLUE LT
M	916	CAM SENSOR A 12V	WHITE/RED
N	439	IGNITION POWER	PINK/BLACK
P	839	IGNITION POWER	PINK/BLACK

1986-87 Turbo Regal C3I Ignition Module Connector Pinouts

PIN	WIRE #	DESCRIPTION	WIRE COLOR
A	423	ECM B4 EST	WHITE
B	424	ECM D5 BYPASS	TAN/BLACK
C	430	ECM B5 REF. HIGH	PURPLE/WHITE
D	453	ECM B3 REF. LOW	BLACK/RED
E	121	TACH LEAD	WHITE
F	643	CRANK SENSOR B SIGNAL	BLUE/WHITE
G	642	CRANK SENSOR C GRND	BLACK
H	641	CRANK SENSOR A 10V+	BLACK/LT GREEN
J	630	ECM ALL CAM	BLACK
K	633	CAM SENSOR B SIGNAL	BROWN/WHITE
L	632	CAM SENSOR C GRND	BLACK/PINK
M	639	IGNITION POWER	PINK/BLACK
N	631	CAM SENSOR A 10V+	YELLOW
P	439	IGNITION POWER	PINK/BLACK

TURBO REGAL C3I IGNITION MODULE CONNECTOR PIN OUTS (CONTINUED)

HYBRID '84-'85 HARNESS CONNECTOR
USING '86-'87 IGNITION MODULE

PIN	WIRE #	DESCRIPTION	WIRE COLOR
A	423	ECM B4 EST	WHITE
B	424	ECM D5 BYPASS	TAN/BLACK
C	430	ECM B5 REF. HIGH	PURPLE/WHITE
D	453	ECM B3 REF. LOW	BLACK/RED
E	121	TACH LEAD	WHITE
F	918	CRANK SENSOR B SIGNAL	GREEN
G	952	CRANK SENSOR C GRND	BLACK
H	916	CRANK SENSOR A 12V	WHITE/RED
J	951	ECM ALL CAM	YELLOW
K	917	CAM SENSOR B SIGNAL	LT BLUE
L	952	CAM SENSOR C GRND	BLACK
M	839	IGNITION POWER	PINK/BLACK
N	916	CAM SENSOR A 12V	WHITE/RED
P	439	IGNITION POWER	PINK/BLACK

IAC Reset Procedure with a Scan Tool

Ken Mosher

Procedure

The ECM controls idle rpm with the IAC (idle air control) valve. The idle rpm is programmed into the PROM. To increase idle rpm the ECM moves the IAC valve out allowing more air to pass by the throttle plate. To decrease rpm it moves the IAC valve in to reduce air past the throttle plate. A scan tool will read the ECM commands to the IAC valve in counts. Higher the counts the more the air is being allowed to pass the throttle plate (higher idle). Lower the counts the less the air is being allowed to pass the throttle plate (lower idle).

Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. This is important ... the car needs to be in closed loop.
Connect scan tool. Verify it's in closed loop.
Put the car in park and wait a couple seconds for it to settle into a regular idle.
Look at the IAC counts (# and not % in TurboLink™)
If the IAC counts are between 10-40, then it's pretty close. Otherwise, do the following adjustment procedure, with a target number of around 20-25 counts.
The Minimum Air adjustment screw is on the dirver's side of the throttle body on the throttle linkage arm (often times misunderstood as the "idle adjustment screw". Pull off the gray rubber cable protecting the screw head.
Turn the screw in VERY small amounts (1/4 turn or so) to adjust the Minimum Air setting. Turning it counter clockwise closes the throttle blade and will normally raise the IAC counts. Turning it clockwise opens the throttle blade and will normally lower IAC counts.
Carefully monitor the IAC counts while making small adjustments to the Minimum Air setting screw. Be sure to allow the car to "settle" a bit after each adjustment a couple of seconds.
Once you have IAC counts adjusted to within your target range, adjust the TPS as described HERE.

Adjusting the TPS

Objective

To adjust the Throttle Position Sensor to recommended settings of between 0.40-0.46 volts at idle and between 4.5 and 4.8 volts at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). This procedure should be performed after the minimum idle air settings are already made (via the IAC reset procedure).

Equipment Needed

The following tools are needed:

Flat bladed screwdriver
Scan tool (alternatively, a digital voltmeter)

Procedure

Hook up your scan tool where you can see the readings clearly from under the hood (alternatively, back probe the TPS blue wire with the positive lead of the meter and ground the meter's negative lead to the chassis or battery)
Turn the key ON and leave the engine OFF
Loosen the two screws on the side of the sensor (passenger side of the throttle body) enough to allow you to move the sensor in the "moon shaped" grooves.
Grab the "nose" of the sensor (where the wires plug in) and pull the sensor as far forward as possible and snug the screws enough that it holds the sensor in place (but can still be moved if nudged)
Check the idle reading and tap the nose of the sensor up or down until you get an idle reading of between 0.40 and 0.46 volts. Anything above about 0.5 volts will not be seen as "idle" by the ECM and can cause driveability problems.
Snug the screws down tight enough that the sensor doesn't move and have someone floor the throttle (make sure that the floor mat is out of the car...)
Check the reading and adjust until the sensor reads between 4.55 volts and 4.85 volts. The intent is to make sure that the reading is high enough that the ECM reads full WOT. The actual number doesn't really matter as long as it is with the range.
Recheck the idle reading to make sure that it hasn't changed. This can be a bit of a balancing act and require some very small adjustments and several iterations before both the high and low settings are where you want them to be.

Note: Occasionally a TPS will need the moon shaped grooves honed out a bit with a rat tail file to get enough adjustment, but normally the trick of moving the sensor as far forward as possible gives enough adjustment. Also, be very careful around the little roll pin that rests on the throttle lever, since it can bend or break.

Cam Sensor Adjustment Procedure

1.	Measure on a piece of masking tape and mark it at 1.45" and tape it to the Balancer at 0 degrees.
2.	Bring #1 to TDC and then grab the intercooler fan and rotate the motor to your mark (25 degrees ATDC). This takes a little patience and muscle. You can try bumping it with the starter, but I'm never very successful at that.
3.	Back probe the middle wire of the cam sensor (marked B and normally blue) with a voltmeter. Turn the key ON, but leave the engine OFF.
4.	Loosen the sensor with a distributor wrench or a wobble socket and extension.
5.	Rotate the sensor full CLOCKWISE. The voltmeter should read 7.5+ volts.
6.	Slowly rotate the sensor COUNTER clockwise until the voltage drops.
7.	Secure the sensor at the instant the voltage drops.

The sensor is a hall effect device with a rotating metal ring that is driven from the front of the cam gear via a shaft (like a distributor). This ring passes thru a grooved sensor molded into the sensor cap. The metal ring has a notch or window cut out of it. When the window goes by the sensor, the voltage drops, which tells the ECM where #1 TDC is.

Jim Frankovich has done some measuring and calculating and has the following input:

20º = 1.160"
21º = 1.218"
22º = 1.276"
23º = 1.334"
24º = 1.392"
25º = 1.450"
30º = 1.740"
Every degree figures out to be about 0.058"

Several people have found that when running a bigger cam with advanced valve timing, it sometimes will help cure a popping or sputtering symptom by advancing the cam sensor a few degrees. The above values give you an idea of what to shoot for.

Cam Sensor Information and C3I Module Pinouts

Cam Sensor Adjustment Procedure

1.	Measure on a piece of masking tape and mark it at 1.45" and tape it to the Balancer at 0 degrees.
2.	Bring #1 to TDC and then grab the intercooler fan and rotate the motor to your mark (25 degrees ATDC). This takes a little patience and muscle. You can try bumping it with the starter, but I'm never very successful at that.
3.	Back probe the middle wire of the cam sensor (marked B and normally blue) with a voltmeter. Turn the key ON, but leave the engine OFF.
4.	Loosen the sensor with a distributor wrench or a wobble socket and extension.
5.	Rotate the sensor full CLOCKWISE. The voltmeter should read 7.5+ volts.
6.	Slowly rotate the sensor COUNTER clockwise until the voltage drops.
7.	Secure the sensor at the instant the voltage drops.

Cam Sensor Adjustment Procedure with an Oscilloscope

1.	Somehow, tap into the ignition module connector. Pick your cam & crank sensor signal & GND from there.
2.	Put 1 channel of the scope on the cam and another channel on the crank signal.
3.	Rising edge to falling edge (and vice versa) on the crank signal is 60 crank degrees.
4.	Falling edge of cam signal occurs 25 deg ATDC of #1 cylinder on compression stroke. Make SURE this is occurring on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke of #1. If you do set the cam sensor to the exhaust stroke, it will be 180 cam degrees (360 crank degrees) out of sync - the engine will still run but not as well as fuel will be puddling for 1 crank rev.
5.	Rising edge of crank signal for #1 cyl occurs 10 deg BTDC.
6.	This means that the falling edge of the cam signal should occur 35 degrees after the rising edge of the crank signal. Remember that half a period (rising to falling edge or vice versa) of the crank signal is 60 crank degrees, so use it as a ref to measure the 35 degrees.
7.	Spec is +- 5 degrees so you don't have to be exact. Also, obviously the engine has to be running to do this. Setting the CPS with a scope like this is the most accurate method, although the static method of setting the crank 25 degrees ATDC and twisting the CPS till you're on the borderline where it switches is probably within the 5 degree spec.
8.	The hold down bolt is either a 14mm or 9/16. I always use a 14mm 1/4 inch drive. I've done it with a 3/8 drive and u-joint, but the CPS itself is kinda in the way as the bolt is kinda tucked under it. In some cars (mine for instance), the CPS distributor shaft is put in in such a way that once the CPS is correctly set, the "ears" that bolt the plastic cover to the unit are directly in the way of the hold down bolt so you can't get a socket wrench on it. In those cases you have to pull the shaft out and reposition it.

C3I Module Pinouts

1984-1985

C3I Pin	Wire Number	Description	Color
A	423	ECM B4 EST	White
B	424	ECM D5 Bypass	Tan/Black
C	430	ECM B5 Ref. High	Purple/White
D	121	Tach Lead	White
E	951	ECM A11 Cam	White
F	453	ECM B3 Ref. Low	Black/Red
G	918	Crank Sensor B Signal	Green
H	952	Crank Sensor C GND	Black
J	916	Crank Sensor A 12v	White/Red
K	952	Cam Sensor C GND	Black
L	917	Cam Sensor B Signal	Blue LT
M	916	Cam Sensor A 12v	White/Red
N	439	Ignition Power	Pink/Black
P	839	Ignition Power	Pink/Black

1986-1987

C3I Pin	Wire Number	Description	Color
A	423	ECM B4 EST	White
B	424	ECM D5 Bypass	Tan/Black
C	430	ECM B5 Ref. High	Purple/White
D	453	ECM B3 Ref. Low	Black/Red
E	121	Tach Lead	White
F	643	Crank Sensor B Signal	Blue/White
G	642	Crank Sensor C GND	Black/Yellow
H	641	Crank Sensor A 10V+	Black/Light Green
J	630	ECM A11 CAM	Black
K	633	Cam Sensor B Sync	Brown/White
L	632	Cam Sensor C GND	Black/Pink
M	639	Ignition Power	Pink/Black
N	631	Cam Sensor A 10V+	Yellow
P	439	Ignition Power	Pink/Black

Alternative Cam Sensor Adjustment Procedure

Scott Walsh

Cam Sensor Adjustment Procedure

NOTES: This procedure is easier if all sensors are disconnected. There are several sensors in the area and removing the wiring harnesses make your job easier. The intercooler does not have to be removed but removal of it and your serpentine belt will make rotating the engine easier. You must also remove the up pipe and intake hose between the MASS air sensor and the turbo.

1.	Measure on a piece of masking tape and mark it at 1.45". Apply the tape to the left side of the vibration damper at the TDC timing mark.
2.	Rotate engine to TDC, compression stroke.
3.	Install the cam sensor. Cam sensor “window” will face towards the drivers side of the car. You may have to reposition the notch in the oil pump drive to mate with the cam sensor. Remember the gear drive is a helical cut, you will have to rotate the sensor counterclockwise so it will end up in the desired position. (There is not an exact position for the sensor as timing is determined by the adjusting procedure.)
4.	Install cam sensor hold down bolt, but do not tighten.
5.	Re-attach all sensor connections, and replace cam sensor cap.
6.	Turn ignition key to “ON” position. Do not crank engine. Using a voltmeter, probe the “B” wire connection on the harness to the cam sensor.
7.	Rotate the sensor clockwise. The reading on your voltmeter should be approximately 7.5 volts.
8.	Rotate the sensor counterclockwise. As you rotate the sensor, the voltage will drop to “0". Secure the hold down bolt at this location.
9.	Re-connect all sensors
10.	Install serpentine belt, intercooler, up pipe and intake hose.
11.	Ensuring you have checked and topped all fluid levels, go ahead and start the engine.
12.	If you have followed the procedure properly the engine must run.
13.	No further adjustment is necessary, your cam sensor is adjusted properly

86/87 ECM Car List

Marvin Ballard - marvinballard@bigfoot.com

ECM List

The following is a list of cars that have the same ecm as the '86-87 GN's and T-Types. They are suppose to be direct replacements less the prom:

I received this list while at the junk yard. It was generated from there computer using Hollander Number: 590-1554 Electronic Engine Control Module Hollander Listing.